I noticed my ground control perches are cupping and no longer flat. The problem I think is that swift only makes a 7" and a 6".
At least I still have my stiffer front swaybar.
I was looking forward to trying AutoX on the stiffer springs, but after about 2 months on them, I wimped out. If I disconnect rear shocks then the rear springs are loose and it's easy to change the rear ride height. One disadvantage is since I'm back to 6.5" rear springs, if I raise the back the springs are still under some tension so changing rear ride height is harder. The stiffer springs were great at the track and on smooth roads but were annoying me a lot on this one freeway I often drive to and from work. Definitely more comfortable than 525/650 on freeway expansion joints or bumpy surface streets. Went back to the 440/550 springs yesterday. Downside is you might have to disconnect rear shocks whenever you want to adjust rear ride height. Good news is your rear springs will never be loose and will always be under some tension. With the 6" spring, I can raise the adjuster easily by hand (no wrenches) even with shocks connected.Īssuming you have shortened rear shocks, I think a 7" 550 lb rear spring might require you to disconnect rear shocks to raise adjuster to desired position, then use jack to raise wheel and control arm up high enough to reconnect the rear shock. With the 6.5" rear spring, it was work to raise the adjusters to the desired ride height unless I disconnected the shocks-I had to use the adjuster wrenches. Both springs let me achieve my desired ride height but with the 6.5" spring the adjuster was 3 or 4 turns up from the bottom while with the 6" spring the adjuster is about 5 turns from the top.
#E46 FRONT COIL SPRING BOOSTER FULL#
The 6" are a little short, not for ride height, but for fear they might rattle around when going over a big bump and hitting full droop.
My previous rear springs were 6.5" length. The HKS was packaged for Bruce but he didn't want it because I painted it flat black and he didn't want to deal with the hassle of removing the paint and damaging the SS finish. Problem is I made numerous changes were done to the car between the two years besides the springs.: Only track I did a repeat before and after the swift springs was Buttonwillow CW13 I think the car felt more neutral after the swift springs, where the GC springs were closer to understeer conditions. Prior to the LSD setup, the car rotated very well and performed like a champ. I haven't done a new trackday with the LSD setup with the OEM M3 rear sway so I'm unsure how my setup is right now. I may purchase a new 7", perhaps you are interested in the 65mm 6" 10k for the front?īeing that I live in the city, I believe my 8k/10k setup is a perfect compromise from comfort and track performance. I think I should've gotten a 7" spring for the rear as I think my car is still too low in the rear. I've done 3 track days on the Swift Springs. deep exhaust tone > stiff suspension! Wait didn't you already package it up for somebody? Or I could just save the money for your HKS exhaust. But when I drive on a bad road my current spring rates are very annoying and I think I should stay with what I have and not try to go stiffer. When I drive nice roads (most of the time) I am sure I could handle higher spring rates. Or could just buy the 650lb springs for my rear and move my current rear 547lb sprins up front. saw some used 525 front and 650lb rear springs for sale. Have been thinking of trying stiffer springs. Derek, how many track days have you done on the new Swift springs? Do you ever wish for more spring rate, or wish you could go back to the softer springs? I'm riding on GC/Eibach 440/547 lb/inch springs, similar to your rates, though your springs are Swift.
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